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which is mixed for days, before being dried in the sun and then crumbled into irregular, reddish granules.“Tarhana is a quick but delicious dish,” explains Gulseren. “Just dissolve it in wa- ter or chicken stock and add it to salca [a thick sauce of peppers and tomatoes]. Stir it over low heat, and it’s ready in a flash,” she says, smiling. Tarhana is in fact a hymn to diversity; in Turkey, not only does its preparation and consumption change from region to region and even village tovillage, but every family prepares it in their own unique way, following recipes passed down through the generations. Gulseren, however, is convinced that there is no better tarhana in the world than hers. “Come to the Foça market, get some of my tarhana and eat it at breakfast ‘Aegean style,’ with olives and pickles,” she says, raising her voice until it echoes off the stone paving. “You can go all over Turkey and you’ll never find another one like it.”125© IVo danChEV